한국복식학회(IJCF) 학술지영문홈페이지
[ Article ]
International Journal of Costume and Fashion - Vol. 21, No. 2, pp.65-79
ISSN: 2233-9051 (Print) 2288-7490 (Online)
Print publication date 31 Dec 2021
Received 22 Nov 2021 Revised 12 Dec 2021 Accepted 24 Dec 2021
DOI: https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2021.21.2.065

An Empirical Analysis of Category Extension in the Online Luxury Fashion Market

Chikako Miura ; Sakiho Kai ; Takao Furukawa ; Kaoru Mori ; Yumi Kwon
Research and Teaching Assistant, Dept. of Home and Health Sciences, Kamakura Women’s University, Kanagawa, Japan
Research and Teaching Assistant, Dept. of Textile and Clothing, Kyoritsu Women’s University, Tokyo, Japan
Professor, Dept. of Textile and Clothing, Kyoritsu Women’s University, Tokyo, Japan
Senior Researcher, Keio Research Institute at SFC, Keio University, Kanagawa, Japan
Ph.D., Comparative Studies of Societies and Cultures, Ochanomizu University, Tokyo, Japan

Correspondence to: kyummy@hanmail.net

Citation Miura, C., Kai, S., Furukawa, T., Mori, K., & Kwon, Y. (2021). An empirical analysis of category extension in the online luxury fashion Market. International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 21(2), 65-79.

Abstract

The purpose of the present study is to reveal the actual circumstances of brand extension in the luxury fashion market by shedding light on category extensions and their relationship to the pricing strategies of each fashion brand. To perform a comprehensive empirical analysis of luxury fashion products, the study analyzed 308,154 unique products from 2,513 individual brands sold on online platforms. The study further estimated product sales according to brand category and sub-category. The research results reveal how estimated sales for clothing, bags, footwear, accessories, and jewelry confirm the fact that horizontal brand extension for luxury fashion brands result in increased sales. Furthermore, the estimated sales by sub-category reveal a complementary relationship between flagship products and affordable products. These complementary relationships enable a diagonal brand extension that prevents brand dilution and cannibalization. In short, the results reveal how effective brand extension reflects brand equity, which in turn is useful for the growth of emerging brands. Existing studies on the brand extension of luxury fashion products were limited to a consumer-centered approach, but the present study is significant in that it quantitatively analyzes brand extension for luxury brands in the online market.

Keywords:

Brand extension, Luxury fashion brand, Online fashion platform, Estimated online sales

References

  • Aaker, D. (1990). Brand extensions: The good, the bad, and the ugly. MIT Sloan Management Review, 31(4), 47-56.
  • Aaker, D. A. (1997). Should you take your brand to where the action is. Harvard Business Review, 75(5), 135-144.
  • Aaker, D. A. & Keller, K. L. (1990). Consumer evaluations of brand extensions. Journal of Marketing, 54(1), 27-41.
  • Bain & Company (2020). Luxury goods worldwide market study, Fall-Winter 2019 – Eight themes that are rewriting the future of luxury goods. Bain & Company. Retrieved from https://www.bain.com/insights/eight-themes-that-are-rewriting-the-future-of-luxury-goods, /
  • Birtwistle, G., & Moore, C. M. (2005). The nature of parenting advantage in luxury fashion retailing–the case of Gucci group NV. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 33(4), 256-270. [https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550510593194]
  • Boisvert, J., & Ashill, N. J. (2018). The impact of branding strategies on horizontal and downward line extension of luxury brands: A cross-national study. International Marketing Review, 35(6), 1033-1052. [https://doi.org/10.1108/IMR-10-2017-0208]
  • Broniarczyk, S. M., & Alba, J. W. (1994). The importance of the brand in brand extension. Journal of Marketing Research, 31(2), 214-228.
  • Cavender, R., & Kincade, D. H. (2014). Management of a luxury brand: Dimensions and sub-variables from a case study of LVMH. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 18(2), 231-248. [https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-03-2013-0041]
  • Chevalier, M., & Mazzalovo, G. (2008). Luxury Brand Management. Milan; Franco Angeli.
  • Childs, M., Jin, B., & Tullar, W. L. (2018). Vertical versus horizontal line extensions: a comparison of dilution effects. Journal of Product and Brand Management, 27(6), 670-683. [https://doi.org/10.1108/JPBM-01-2017-1386]
  • Dall’Olmo Riley, F, Pina, J. M., & Bravo, R. (2013). Downscale extensions: Consumer evaluation and feedback effects. Journal of Business Research, 66(2), 196-206. [https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2012.07.013]
  • Donzé P. Y. (2018) The birth of luxury big business: LVMH, Richemont and Kering. In P. Y. Donzé, & R. Fujioka, (Eds.), Global Luxury (pp.19-38). Singpore: Palgrave. [https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-5236-1_2]
  • Eren-Erdogmus, I., Akgun, I., & Arda, E. (2018). Drivers of successful luxury fashion brand extensions: cases of complement and transfer extensions. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 22(4), 476-493. [https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-02-2018-0020]
  • Farquhar, P. H. (1989). Managing brand equity. Marketing Research, 1(3),24-33.
  • Fionda, A. M., & Moore, C. M. (2009). The anatomy of the luxury fashion brand. Journal of Brand Management, 16(5-6), 347-363. [https://doi.org/10.1057/bm.2008.45]
  • Furukawa, T., Nakazawa, M., Miura, C., Kai, S., & Mori, K. (2020). Dynamic pricing of luxury fashion products – An empirical analysis of online stores. International Journal of Affective Engineering, 19(2), 83-91. [https://doi.org/10.5057/ijae.IJAE-D-19-00009]
  • Hennigs, N., Wiedmann, K. P., Behrens, S., Klarmann, C., & Carduck, J. (2013). Brand extensions: A successful strategy in luxury fashion branding? Assessing consumers’ implicit associations. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(4), 390-402. [https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-03-2013-0022]
  • John, D. R., Loken, B., & Joiner, C. (1998). The negative impact of extensions: Can flagship products be diluted?. Journal of Marketing, 62(1), 19-32.
  • Jordan, E. (2019). Presentation Details at dbAccess Global Consumer Conference. Retrieved from https://www.farfetchinvestors.com/events-and-presentations/events, /
  • Kapferer, J. N. (1997). Managing luxury brands. Journal of Brand Management, 4(4), 251-259.
  • Kapferer, J. N., & Bastien, V. (2009). The specificity of luxury management: Turning marketing upside down. Journal of Brand Management, 16(5-6), 311-322. [https://doi.org/10.1057/bm.2008.51]
  • Katz, M. L., & Shapiro, C. (1985). Network externalities, competition, and compatibility. American Economic Review, 75(3), 424-440.
  • Keller, K. L. (1993). Conceptualizing, measuring, and managing customer-based brand equity. Journal of Marketing, 57(1), 1-22.
  • Keller, K. L., & Aaker, D. A. (1992). The effects of sequential introduction of brand extensions. Journal of Marketing Research, 29(1), 35-50.
  • Keller, K. L. (2009). Managing the growth tradeoff: Challenges and opportunities in luxury branding. Journal of Brand Management, 16(5-6), 290-301. [https://doi.org/10.1057/bm.2008.47]
  • Kim, C. K., & Lavack, A. M. (1996). Vertical brand extensions: Current research and managerial implications. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 5(6), 24-37.
  • Kim, C. K., Lavack, A. M., & Smith, M. (2001). Consumer evaluation of vertical brand extensions and core brands. Journal of Business Research, 52(3), 211-222. [https://doi.org/10.1016/S0148-2963(99)00107-1]
  • Kirmani, A., Sood, S., & Bridges, S. (1999). The ownership effect in consumer responses to brand line stretches. Journal of Marketing, 63(1), 88-101.
  • Loken, B., & Roedder John, D. (1993). Diluting brand beliefs: when do brand extensions have a negative impact?. Journal of Marketing, 57(3), 71-84.
  • Magnoni, F., & Roux, E. (2012). The impact of step-down line extension on consumer-brand relationships: A risky strategy for luxury brands. Journal of Brand Management, 19(7), 595-608. [https://doi.org/10.1057/bm.2012.8]
  • Martinez, E., & Pina, J. M. (2003). The negative impact of brand extensions on parent brand image. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 17(7), 432-448. [https://doi.org/10.1108/10610420310506001]
  • Milberg, S. J., Park, C. W., & McCarthy, M. S. (1997). Managing negative feedback effects associated with brand extensions: The impact of alternative branding strategies. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 6(2), 119-140.
  • Moore, C. M., & Birtwistle, G. (2004). The Burberry business model: creating an international luxury fashion brand. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 32 (8), 412-422. [https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550410546232]
  • Moore, C. M., & Doyle, S. A. (2010). The evolution of a luxury brand: The case of Prada. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 38(11-12), 915-927. [https://doi.org/10.1108/09590551011085984]
  • Morein, J. A. (1975). Shift from brand to product line marketing. Harvard Business Review, 53(5), 56-64.
  • Nueno, J. L., & Quelch, J. A. (1998). The mass marketing of luxury. Business Horizons, 41(6), 61-61.
  • Park, C. W., Milberg, S., & Lawson, R. (1991). Evaluation of brand extensions: The role of product feature similarity and brand concept consistency. Journal of Consumer Research, 18(2), 185-193.
  • Pitta, D. A., & Katsanis, L. P. (1995). Understanding brand equity for successful brand extension. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 12(4), 51-64.
  • Quelch, J. A. & Kenny, J. (1994). Extend Profits, Not Product Lines. Harvard Business Review, 72(5), 153-60.
  • Randall, T., Ulrich, K., & Reibstein, D. (1998). Brand equity and vertical product line extent. Marketing Science, 17(4), 356-379.
  • Reddy, S. K., Holak, S. L., & Bhat, S. (1994). To extend or not to extend: Success determinants of line extensions. Journal of Marketing Research, 31(2), 243-262.
  • Reddy, M., Terblanche, N., Pitt, L., & Parent, M. (2009). How far can luxury brands travel? Avoiding the pitfalls of luxury brand extension. Business Horizons, 52(2), 187-197. [https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2008.11.001]
  • Ross, J. & Harradine, R. (2011), Fashion value brands: the relationship between identity and image. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 15(3), 306-325. [https://doi.org/10.1108/13612021111151914]
  • Stegemann, N. (2006). Unique brand extension challenges for luxury brands. Journal of Business & Economics Research, 4(10), 57-68. [https://doi.org/10.19030/jber.v4i10.2704]
  • Tauber, E. M. (1981). Brand franchise extension: New product benefits from existing brand names. Business Horizons, 24(2), 36-41.
  • Tauber, E. M. (1988). Brand leverage: strategy for growth in a cost-control world. Journal of Advertising Research, 28(4), 25-30.
  • Truong, Y., Simmons, G., McColl, R., & Kitchen, P. J. (2008). Status and conspicuousness – are they related? Strategic marketing implications for luxury brands. Journal of Strategic Marketing, 16(3), 189-203. [https://doi.org/10.1080/09652540802117124]
  • Viot, C. (2011). Can brand identity predict brand extensions' success or failure?. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 20(3), 216-227. [https://doi.org/10.1108/10610421111134941]