한국복식학회(IJCF) 학술지영문홈페이지
[ Article ]
International Journal of Costume and Fashion - Vol. 23, No. 2, pp.1-15
ISSN: 2233-9051 (Print) 2288-7490 (Online)
Print publication date 31 Dec 2023
Received 03 May 2023 Revised 31 Jul 2023 Accepted 14 Aug 2023
DOI: https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2023.23.2.001

The Evolution of Masculinity and Dress Aesthetics: A Data-Mining Approach to Analyzing Social Media Discourse

Jeremy M. Bernardoni
Assistant Professor, Department of Design, University of North Texas, USA

Correspondence to: jeremy.bernardoni@unt.edu

Citation Bernardoni, J. M. (2023). The Evolution of Masculinity and Dress Aesthetics: A Data-Mining Approach to Analyzing Social Media Discourse International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 23(2), 1-15.

Abstract

This exploratory research investigates how social media platforms shape and reflect contemporary perspectives on masculinity and dress aesthetics while exploring the evolving perceptions of masculinity across a spectrum of viewpoints with Connell’s theory of masculinity as a theoretical framework. Using a data mining approach, including sentiment analysis, topic modeling, and content analysis, this study explores patterns and topics in Twitter conversations related to masculinity and men’s dress aesthetics. Findings suggest that overall sentiment was more positive than negative for evolving masculinity and identity expression through dress aesthetics. Additionally, topic modeling and content analysis of the Twitter data suggest that although there is continued representation of traditional hegemonic masculinity ideals, there are equally individuals that supported shifting attitudes and willingness to discuss non-traditional masculinities and masculinities that include self-care, identity, and appearance management strategies, social responsibility, inclusivity, and intersectionality. Furthermore, while some found social media to allow for negative criticism and toxic masculinity representation, many found it to be an engaging environment to shape the changing landscape of the masculinity construct and to seek and promote dress aesthetics that align with multiple masculinities and their identity performances.

Keywords:

Aesthetics, Dress, Fashion, Masculinity, Data Mining, Social Media

References

  • Adams, N. N. (2023). A triad of physical masculinities: Examining multiple ‘hegemonic’ bodybuilding identities in anabolic-androgenic steroid (AAS) online discussion groups. Deviant Behavior, 44(10), 1-19. [https://doi.org/10.1080/01639625.2023.2211209]
  • Adomaitis, A. D., Saiki, D., Johnson, K. K. P., Sahanoor, R., & Attique, A. (2021). Relationships between dress and gender identity: LGBTQIA+ . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X211059103]
  • Alasadi, S. A., & Bhaya, W. S. (2017). Review of data preprocessing techniques in data mining. Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences, 12(16), 4102-4107.
  • Anderson, E. (2010). Inclusive masculinity: The changing nature of masculinities. Routledge. [https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203871485]
  • Ariella, J., Putrib, C. F. I. L. D., Usu, N. R., & Talani, N. S. (2023). New ideologies on Scarlett whitening advertisement: Interpreting symbols of new masculinity. Tuturlogi: Journal of Southeast Asian Communication, 3(1), 1-12. [https://doi.org/10.21776/ub.tuturlogi.2023.004.01.1]
  • Bennett, E., & Gough, B. (2013). In pursuit of leanness: The management of appearance, affect and masculinities within a men’s weight loss forum. Health: An Interdisciplinary Journal for the Social Study of Health, Illness and Medicine, 17(3), 284-299. [https://doi.org/10.1177/1363459312454149]
  • Bernardoni, J. M., & Stannard, C. R. (2022). The prime aesthetic: Imprinted aesthetic dress preferences. International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 79(1). [https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.15850]
  • Bochicchio, L., Carmichael, A. J., Veldhuis, C., & Stefancic, A. (2023). What we lose when we “don’t say gay”: Generational shifts in sexual identity and gender. Social Work, 68(2), 159-165. [https://doi.org/10.1093/sw/swad006]
  • Boothby, L. (2013). Are women the new dominant sex?: Investigating the impact of feminism on masculine roles and identity. The Sociological Imagination: Undergraduate Journal, 2(2).
  • Bridges, T., & Pascoe, C. J. (2014). Hybrid masculinities: New directions in the sociology of men and masculinities. Sociology Compass, 8(3), 246-258. [https://doi.org/10.1111/soc4.12134]
  • Bussey, K., & Bandura, A. (1999). Social cognitive theory of gender development and differentiation. Psychological review, 106(4), 676. [https://doi.org/10.1037/0033-295X.106.4.676]
  • Carrigan, T., Connell, B., & Lee, J. (1985). Toward a new sociology of masculinity. Theory and Society, 14(5), 551-604. [https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00160017]
  • Chattaraman, V., & Rudd, N. A. (2006). Preferences for aesthetic attributes in clothing as a function of body image, body cathexis, and body size. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(1), 46-61. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X0602400104]
  • Connell, R. W. (2005). Masculinities (2nd ed.). Berkeley: University of California Press.
  • Connell, R. W., & Messerschmidt, J. W. (2005). Hegemonic masculinity: Rethinking the concept. Gender & Society, 19(6), 829-859. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0891243205278639]
  • Daniel, S., Bridges, S. K., & Martens, M. P. (2014). The development and validation of the male assessment of self-objectification. Psychology of Men & Masculinity, 15(1), 78. [https://doi.org/10.1037/a0031518]
  • Davis, L. L. (1985). Sex, gender identity, and behavior concerning sex-related clothing. Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 3(2), 20-24. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X8500300203]
  • DeLong, M. R. (1987). The way we look: A framework for visual analysis of dress. Ames: Iowa State University Press.
  • Demetriou, D. Z. (2001). Connell’s concept of hegemonic masculinity: A critique. Theory and Society, 30(3), 337-361. [https://doi.org/10.1023/A:1017596718715]
  • Dormanen, R., Sanders, C. S., Maffly-Kipp, J., Smith, J. L., & Vess, M. (2020). Assimilation undercuts authenticity: A consequence of women’s masculine self-presentation in masculine contexts. Psychology of Women Quarterly, 44(4), 488-502. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0361684320947648]
  • Eckman, M. J. (1992). Consumers’ aesthetic evaluation of clothing: The effect of age, sex, and fashion involvement (Publication No. 9234556) [Doctoral dissertation, University of Maryland, College Park]. ProQuest Dissertations Publishing.
  • Fiore, A. M., & DeLong, M. R. (1993). The influence of public self-consciousness and self-monitoring on participation in an effective presentation program. Journal of Career Development, 20(2), 161-168. [https://doi.org/10.1177/089484539302000206]
  • Fiore, A. M., Kimle, P. A., & Moreno, J. M. (1996a). Aesthetics: A comparison of the state of the art outside and inside the field of textiles and clothing part one: Creator and creative process. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 14(1), 30-40. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9601400105]
  • Fiore, A. M., Kimle, P. A., & Moreno, J. M. (1996b). Aesthetics: A comparison of the state of the art outside and inside the field of textiles and clothing part two: Object. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 14(2), 97-107. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9601400201]
  • Fiore, A. M., Moreno, J. M., & Kimle, P. A. (1996). Aesthetics: A comparison of the state of the art outside and inside the field of textiles and clothing part three: Appreciation process, appreciator and summary comparisons. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 14(3), 169-184. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9601400302]
  • Forsythe, S. M. (1988). Effect of clothing masculinity on perceptions of managerial traits: Does gender of the perceiver make a difference? Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(2), 10-16. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X8800600202]
  • García, S., Luengo, J., & Herrera, F. (2015). Data preprocessing in data mining. Springer. [https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-10247-4]
  • Goffman, E. (1959). The presentation of self in everyday life. Doubleday.
  • Gough, B., Hall, M., & Seymour-Smith, S. (2014). Straight guys do wear make-up: Contemporary masculinities and investment in appearance. In S. Roberts (Ed.), Debating modern masculinities: Change, continuity, crisis? (pp. 106-124). Palgrave Macmillan. [https://doi.org/10.1057/9781137394842_7]
  • Gupta, S., & Gentry, J. W. (2016). Construction of gender roles in perceived scarce environments – Maintaining masculinity when shopping for fast fashion apparel. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 15(3), 251-260. [https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1565]
  • Hanke, R. (1992). Redesigning men: Hegemonic masculinity in transition. In S. Craig (Ed.), Men, masculinity, and the media (pp. 185-198). Sage. [https://doi.org/10.4135/9781483326023.n13]
  • Hatfield, E. F. (2010). “What it means to be a man”: Examining hegemonic masculinity in two and a half men. Communication, Culture & Critique, 3(4), 526-548. [https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1753-9137.2010.01084.x]
  • Holbrook, M. B., & Schindler, R. M. (1994). Age, sex, and attitude toward the past as predictors of consumers’ aesthetic tastes for cultural products. Journal of Marketing Research, 31(3), 412-422. [https://doi.org/10.2307/3152228]
  • Johnson, K. K. P., & Roach-Higgins, M. E. (1987). Dress and physical attractiveness of women in job interviews. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 5(3), 1-8. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X8700500301]
  • Johnson, K. K. P., Crutsinger, C., & Workman, J. E. (1994). Can professional women appear too masculine? The case of the necktie. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 12(2), 27-31. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9401200204]
  • Liu, B., & Zhang, L. (2012). A survey of opinion mining and sentiment analysis. In C. C. Aggarwal & C. X. Zhai (Eds.), Mining text data (pp. 415-463). Springer. [https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4614-3223-4_13]
  • Liu, C., Xia, S., & Lang, C. (2021). Clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic: Evidence from mining tweets. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 39(4), 314-330. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X211014973]
  • Liu, C., Xia, S., & Lang, C. (2023). Online luxury resale platforms and customer experiences: A text mining analysis of online reviews. Sustainability, 15(10), 8137. [https://doi.org/10.3390/su15108137]
  • Ma, X. (2023). Multiple masculinities in beauty market: A case study of male’s gender performances on livestreaming platforms. Lecture Notes in Education Psychology and Public Media, 3, 742-753. [https://doi.org/10.54254/2753-7048/3/2022312]
  • MacKinnon, K. (2003). Representing men: Maleness and masculinity in the media. Arnold.
  • McGuire, J. K., & Reilly, A. (2022). Aesthetic identity development among trans adolescents and young adults. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 40(3), 235-250. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X20975382]
  • McKinley, C. E. (2023a). Gender inequities in home life: Moms “mostly pulling the weight”. In C. E. McKinley, Understanding indigenous gender relations and violence: Becoming gender AWAke (pp. 137-149). Springer. [https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-18583-0_12]
  • McKinley, C. E. (2023b). “We’ve kind of always come together”: Humanizing, complementary, fluid, balanced, and transcendent gender roles to move forward. In Author, Understanding indigenous gender relations and violence: Becoming gender AWAke (pp. 343-351). Springer. [https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-18583-0_33]
  • Mehta, I., & Singh, M. (2023, February 2). Twitter to end free access to its API in Elon Musk’s latest monetization push. TechCrunch. https://techcrunch.com/2023/02/01/twitter-to-end-free-access-to-its-api/
  • Messerschmidt, J. W. (2019). The salience of “hegemonic masculinity”. Men and Masculinities, 22(1), 85-91. [https://doi.org/10.1177/1097184X18805555]
  • Messerschmidt, J. W., & Messner, M. A. (2018). Hegemonic, nonhegemonic, and “new” masculinities. In J. W. Messerschmidt, P. Y. Martin, M. A. Messner, & R. Connell (Eds.), Gender reckonings: New social theory and research (pp. 35-56). New York University Press. [https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctt1pwtb3r.7]
  • Mishkind, M. E., Rodin, J., Silberstein, L. R., & Striegel-Moore, R. H. (1986). The embodiment of masculinity: Cultural, psychological, and behavioral dimensions. American Behavioral Scientist, 29(5), 545-562. [https://doi.org/10.1177/000276486029005004]
  • Nielson, M. G., Tolman, D., Martin, C. L., & Fraser, A. M. (2023). Boys’ internalized appearance-related norms from different socializers uniquely, negatively relate to wellbeing and gender beliefs. The Journal of Early Adolescence. [https://doi.org/10.1177/02724316231176961]
  • Plisson, J., Lavrac, N., & Mladenic, D. (2004). A rule-based approach to word lemmatization. In Proceedings of the 7th International Multiconference on Information Society - Conference on Data Mining and Warehouses (SiKDD 2004) (pp. 83-86). Held October 15, 2004, in Ljubljana, Slovenia.
  • Qaiser, S., & Ali, R. (2018). Text mining: Use of TF-IDF to examine the relevance of words to documents. International Journal of Computer Applications, 181(1), 25-29. [https://doi.org/10.5120/ijca2018917395]
  • Roach-Higgins, M. E., & Eicher, J. B. (1992). Dress and identity. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10(4), 1-8. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9201000401]
  • Rudd, N. A., & Carter, J. (2006). Building positive body image among college athletes: A socially responsible approach. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(4), 363-380. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X06293073]
  • Statista. (2022). Men’s wear market value worldwide from 2018 to 2025 (in billion U.S. dollars). Retrieved April 23, 2023, from https://www.statista.com/statistics/1078278/menswear-market-value-worldwide
  • Stone, G. P. (1975). Appearance and the self. In D. Brissett & C. Edgley (Eds.), Life as theater: A dramaturgical sourcebook (pp. 78-90). Aldine.
  • ul Hasan, H. M. R., Lang, C., & Xia, S. (2023). Investigating consumer values of secondhand fashion consumption in the mass market vs. luxury market: A text-mining approach. Sustainability, 15(1), 254. [https://doi.org/10.3390/su15010254]
  • Valdez, D., Pickett, A. C., & Goodson, P. (2018). Topic modeling: Latent semantic analysis for the social sciences. Social Science Quarterly, 99(5), 1665-1679. [https://doi.org/10.1111/ssqu.12528]
  • Verma, T., Renu, R., & Gaur, D. (2014). Tokenization and filtering process in RapidMiner. International Journal of Applied Information Systems, 7(2), 16-18. [https://doi.org/10.5120/ijais14-451139]
  • Wedgwood, N. (2009). Connell’s theory of masculinity – Its origins and influences on the study of gender. Journal of Gender Studies, 18(4), 329-339. [https://doi.org/10.1080/09589230903260001]
  • Zhao, L., & Min, C. (2019). The rise of fashion informatics: A case of data-mining-based social network analysis in fashion. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 37(2), 87-102. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X18821187]
  • Zhao, L., Li, M., & Sun, P. (2021). Neo-Fashion: A data-driven fashion trend forecasting system using catwalk analysis. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. [https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X211004299]