Current Issue

International Journal of Costume and Fashion - Vol. 23 , No. 2

[ Article ]
International Journal of Costume and Fashion - Vol. 21, No. 2, pp. 1-18
Abbreviation: IJCF
ISSN: 2233-9051 (Print) 2288-7490 (Online)
Print publication date 31 Dec 2021
Received 26 Feb 2021 Revised 13 Jun 2021 Accepted 01 Jul 2021
DOI: https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2021.21.2.001

South Korean Fashion Media: Examining Beauty Ideals, Race, and the Prominence of Whiteness Between 2013 and 2017 in Céci Magazine
Eunji Choi ; Kelly L. Reddy-Best
Master’s alumna, Apparel Merchandising and Design program, Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA
Associate professor, Apparel Merchandising and Design program; Director and Curator Iowa State University Textiles and Clothing Museum, Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA

Correspondence to : kelly.reddybest@gmail.com

Citation Choi, E., & Reddy-Best, K. L., (2021). South Korean fashion media: Examining beauty ideals, race, and the prominence of whiteness between 2013 and 2017 in Céci magazine. International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 21(2), 1-18.


Abstract

The purpose of this research was to critically examine beauty ideals, specifically those related to race and racial hierarchies, with a focus on fashion magazines published in South Korea targeting South Korean women. We used the content analysis method to examine Céci magazine from 2013 to 2017. This magazine is highly popular, widely circulated in South Korea, and produced by a South Korean publisher. Each individual pictured in the magazine was coded into four categories: race, skin color, hair color, and facial characteristics. Descriptive statistics and Pearson’s chi-square were used to analyze the data. Overall, the magazines featured more Asian than White individuals, yet Asians conformed to significantly more White than Asian beauty ideals as well as other beauty ideals that are mostly unnatural to Asian women.


Keywords: Content analysis, Facial characteristics, Hair color, Skin color

References
1. Baxter, S. (2015). Internalization of socio-cultural beauty ideals among ethnically diverse women (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Alliant International University, Sacramento, United States.
2. Bennett, B. (2018, February 23). Here’s why 1 in 3 South Korean women say they’ve had plastic surgery. Buzzfeed. Retrieved from https://www.buzzfeed.com/brentbennett/heres-why-1-in-3-south-korean-women-say-theyve-had-plastic.
3. Bissell, K. L., & Chung, J. Y. (2009). Americanized beauty? Predictors of perceived attractiveness from US and South Korean participants based on media exposure, ethnicity, and socio-cultural attitudes toward ideal beauty. Asian Journal of Communication, 19(2), 227-47.
4. Blair, I. V., Judd, C. M., Sadler, M. S., & Jenkins, C. (2002). The role of Afrocentric features in person perception: Judging by features and categories. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 83(1), 5-25.
5. Brainthwaite, A. (2002). Investigating the power of imagery in marketing communication: Evidence-based techniques. Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal, 5(3), 164-71.
6. Branigan, T. (2001, Oct 15). In the eye of the beholder. The Guardian. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/world/2001/oct/15/gender.uk.
7. Boepple, L., & Thompson, J. K. (2018). A content analytic study of appearance standards for women of color in magazines. Psychology of Popular Media Culture, 7(3), 264-73.
8. Chen, W. P. (2006). Asian blepharoplasty and the eyelid crease. Amsterdam, Netherlands: Elsevier.
9. Cheng, A. (2018, April 9). Why so many Asian-American women are bleaching their hair blond. The New York Times, Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2018/04/09/fashion/why-are-so-many-asian-american-women-bleaching-their-hair-blond.html.
10. Choy, C. (2005). Asian American history: Reflections on imperialism, immigration, and the body. In M. De Jesus (Ed.), Pinay Power: Peminist Critical Theory (pp. 81-98). New York, NY: Routledge.
11. Conrad, K., Dixon, T., and Zhang, Y. Z. (2009). Controversial rap themes, gender portrayals and skin tone distortion: A content analysis of rap music videos. Journal of Broadcasting & Electronic Media, 53(1), 1344-156.
12. Cunningham, M., Roberts, A., Barbee, A., Druen, P., & Wu, C. (1995). “Their ideas of beauty are, on the whole, the same as ours”: Consistency and variability in the cross-cultural perception of female attractiveness. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 68(2), 261-79.
13. Daniel, B. (2015). Proof we’re not post-racial: People are paying $10 billion a year to be lighter. Participant, Retrieved from http://www.takepart.com/article/2015/01/23/beauty-companies-are-making-bank-selling-skin-lighteners-around-globe.
14. Delgado, R., & Stefancic, J. (2017). Critical race theory: An introduction (3rd ed.). New York, NY: New York University Press.
15. Duke, L. (2002). Get real!: Cultural relevance and resistance to the mediated feminine ideal. Psychology & Marketing, 19(2), 211-33.
16. Eisenthal, Y., Dror, G., & Ruppin, E. (2006). Facial attractiveness: Beauty and the machine. Neural Computation, 18(1), 119-42.
17. Festinger, L. (1954). A theory of social comparison processes. Human Relations, 7(2), 117-40.
18. Fitzpatrick, T. B. (1988). The validity and practicality of sun-reactive skin types I through VI. Archives of Dermatology, 124(6), 869-71.
19. Fraser, S. (2003). Cosmetic surgery, gender, and culture. New York, NY: Palgrave Macmillan.
20. Frith, K. T., Cheng, H., & Shaw, P. (2004). Race and beauty: A comparison of Asian and Western models in women’s magazine advertisements. Sex Roles, 50(1–2), 53-61.
21. Glenn, E. N., (2008). Yearning for lightness: Transnational circuits in the marketing and consumption of skin lighteners. Gender and Society, 22(3), 281-302.
22. Grosfoguel, R. (2016). What is racism? Journal of World-Systems Research, 22(1), 9-15.
23. Hall, R. (1997). Eurogamy among Asian Americans: A note on Western assimilation. The Social Science Journal 34(3), 403–8.
24. Hall, R. E. (2010). A historical analysis of skin color discrimination in America: Victimism among victim group populations. New York, NY: Springer.
25. Han, M. (2003). Body image dissatisfaction and eating disturbance among Korean college female students: Relationships to media exposure, upward comparison and perceived reality. Communication Studies, 54(1), 65-78.
26. Han, T.-I., & Rudd, N. A. (2015). Images of beauty: Sex, race, age, and occupational analysis of fashion magazine covers. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 6(1), 47-59.
27. Herbozo, S., Tantleff‐Dunn, S., Gokee‐Larose, J., & Thompson, K. (2004). Beauty and thinness messages in children’s media: A content analysis. Eating Disorders: The Journal of Treatment and Prevention, 12(1), 21-34.
28. Hill, M. E. (2000). Color differences in the socioeconomic status of African American men: Results of a longitudinal study. Social Forces, 78(4), 1437-1460.
29. Hughes, M., & Hertel, B. R. (1990). The significance of color remains: A study of life chances, mate selection, and ethnic consciousness among Black Americans. Social Forces, 68, 1105-1120.
30. Hung, L. (2018, April 24). The evolution of a rebellion: Dying my hair while Asian. Global Comment. Retrieved from http://globalcomment.com/the-evolution-of-a-rebellion-dying-my-hair-while-asian/.
31. Hunter, M. (2005). Race, gender, and the politics of skin tone. London, UK: Routledge.
32. Hunter, M. (2007). The persistent problem of colorism: Skin tone, status and inequality. Sociology Compass 1(1), 237–254.
33. International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. (2019). ISAPS international survey on aesthetic/cosmetic procedures performed in 2019. Retrieved from https://www.isaps.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Global-Survey-2019.pdf.
34. Irving, L. M. (1990). Mirror images: Effects of the standard of beauty on the self- and body-esteem of women exhibiting varying levels of bulimic symptoms. Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, 9(2), 230-42.
35. Isa, M., & Kramer, E. M. (2003). Adopting the Caucasian “look”: Reorganizing the minority face. In E. M. Kramer (Ed.), The emerging monoculture: Assimilation and the “model minority” (pp. 41-74). Westport, CT: Praeger.
36. Jones, V. (2004, August 19). Pride or prejudice? A formally taboo topic among Asian-Americans and Latinos comes out into the open as skin tone consciousness sparks a backlash. Boston Globe. Retrieved from http://archive.boston.com/news/globe/living/articles/2004/08/19/pride_or_prejudice/.
37. Jones, D. (1995). Sexual selection, physical attractiveness, and facial neoteny: Cross-cultural evidence and implications. Current Anthropology, 36(5), 723-48.
38. JTBC Plus Corp. (n.d.). About Céci. Retrieved from http://www.ceci.co.kr/information/about.do.
39. Jung, J., & Lee, Y-J. (2009) Cross-cultural examination of women’s fashion and beauty advertisements in the United States and South Korea. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 27(4), 274-86.
40. Kaiser, S. B., & Green, D. (2021). Fashion and cultural studies. New York, NY: Bloomsbury.
41. Karan, K. (2008). Obsessions with fair skin: Color discourses in Indian advertising. Advertising & Society Review, 9(2), 1-13.
42. Keenan, K. (1996). Skin tones and physical features of Blacks in magazine advertisements. Journalism and Mass Communication Quarterly, 73, 905-912.
43. Keith, V. M. (2009). A colorstruck world: Skin tone, achievement, and self-esteem among African American women. In E. N. Glenn (Ed.), Shades of difference: Why skin color matters (pp. 25-39). Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
44. Keith, V. M., & Herring, C. (1991). Skin tone and stratification in the Black community. American Journal of Sociology, 97(3), 760-778.
45. Kim, H. (2012). Social and cultural issues in some EFL textbooks in Korea. Hawaii Pacific University TESOL Working Paper Series 10, 30-39. Retrieved from http://www.kira2star.com/research-publications/tesol-working-papers/2012/TESOL_WPS_2012_Kim.pdf.
46. Kim, H. A. (2020). Understanding “Koreanness”: Racial stratification and colorism in Korea and implications for Korean multicultural education. International Journal of Multicultural Education, 22(1), 76-97.
47. Kim, L. B., & Chung, J. Y. (2009). Americanized beauty? Predictors of perceived attractiveness from US and South Korean participants based on media exposure, ethnicity, and socio-cultural attitudes toward ideal beauty. Asian Journal of Communication, 19(2), 227-47.
48. Kim, Y. (2010). A content analysis of the normalization of plastic surgery in the news: A comparative study between Korea and the US. Paper presented at the annual meeting of the International Communication Association, Suntec City, Singapore.
49. Kim, Y, K., Kim, J. M., & Hong, N. A. (2012). An analysis of the digital contents of costume cultural heritage. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 62(4), 136-148.
50. Klonoff, E. A., & Landrine, H. (2000). Is skin color a marker for racial discrimination? Explaining the skin color–hypertension relationship. Journal of Behavioral Medicine, 23(4), 329-338.
51. Lee, C. (2015). In today’s Korea, plastic surgery is part of life, fueled by a complex blend of lookism and economy. The Korea Herald. Retrieved from http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20150911000948.
52. Lee, S. Y. (2018, June 21). Multicultural children face discrimination at schools. The Korea Herald. Retrieved from https://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/nation/2018/10/181_250993.html
53. Lee, M., Lee, J., & Lee. K. (2018). A content analysis of Maeil Shinbo editorials on clothing culture in the 1910s. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 68(7), 119-136. doi:10.7233/jksc.2018.68.7.119.
54. Li, E. P. H., Min, H. J., Belk, R. W., Kimura, J., & Bahl, S. (2008). Skin lightening and beauty in four Asian cultures. In A. Y. Lee & D. Soman (Eds.), Advanced in Consumer Research (pp. 444-449). Duluth, MN: Association for Consumer Research.
55. Massey, D. S., & Martin, J. A. (2003). The NIS Skin Color Scale. Retrieved from http://nis.princeton.edu/downloads/NIS-Skin-Color-Scale.pdf.
56. Mayo, D. T., Mayo, C. M., & Mahdi, S. (2005). Skin tones in magazine advertising: Does magazine type matter? Journal of Promotion Management, 11(2-3), 49-59.
57. Minjeong, K., & Lennon, S. J. (2006). Content analysis of diet advertisements: A cross national comparison of Korean and U.S. women’s magazines. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 24(4), 345-362.
58. Naidoo, L., Khoze, N., & Klova, N. C. (2016). A fairer face, a fairer tomorrow? A review of skin lighteners. Cosmetics 3(33), 1-11.
59. Navales, E. (2015). Breaking the Asian myth about Asian hair. Retrieved from http://kore.am/breaking-the-asian-myth-about-asian-hair/.
60. Neuendorf, K. A. (2002). The content analysis guidebook. Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage.
61. Neuman, W. L. (2011). Social research methods: Qualitative and quantitative approaches. Boston, Massachusetts: Allyn and Bacon.
62. Ock, H. J. (2016). Number of foreigners in Korea exceeds 2 million. Korean Herald. Retrieved from http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20160727000493.
63. Ock, H. J. (2018, January 3). Korean perceptions of migrant workers worsen: Survey. The Korea Herald. Retrieved from http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20180103000696.
64. Podmore, M., & Ogle, J. P. (2018). The lived experience of CrossFit as a context for the development of women’s body image and appearance management practices. Fashion and Textiles: International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research, 5(1), 1-23. Retrieved from https://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/s40691-017-0116-y.
65. Rafael, B. (2000). White love and other events in Filipino history. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.
66. Rainwater-McClure, R., Reed, W., & Kramer, E. M. (2003). A world of cookie-cutter faces. In E. M. Kramer (Ed.), The emerging monoculture: Assimilation and the “model minority” (pp. 221-33), Westport, CT: Praeger.
67. Reddy-Best, K. L., Kane, L., Harmon, J., & Gagliardi, N. (2018). Critical perspectives on fashion textbooks: Intersections of race, gender, and body. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology, & Education, 11(1), 63-75.
68. Rich, M. K., & Cash, T. F. (1993). The American image of beauty: Media representations of hair color for four decades. Sex Roles, 29(1/2), 113-24.
69. Roh, J. (2014). Korea’s Employment Permit System and wage development of foreign workers. Public Policy and Administration Review, 2(3), 41-63.
70. Rondilla, J., & Spickard, P. R. (2007). Is lighter better?: Skin-tone discrimination among Asian Americans. Lanham, MD: Rowman & Littlefield.
71. Taylor, S. C., Arsonnaud, S., & Czernielewski, J. (2005). The Taylor Hyperpigmentation Scale: A new visual assessment tool for the evaluation of skin color and pigmentation. Cutis 76(4), 270-274. Retrieved from https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16315565/.
72. Terkildsen, N. (1993). When White voters evaluate Black candidates: The processing implications of candidate skin color, prejudice, and self-monitoring. American Journal of Political Science, 37(4), 1032-1053.
73. Tharps, L. (2016). Same family, different colors: Confronting colorism in America's diverse families. Boston, MA: Beacon Press.
74. Trekels, J., & Eggermont, S. (2017). Beaty is good: The appearance of culture, the internalization of appearance ideals, and dysfunctional appearance among tweens. Human Communication Research, 43(2), 173-192.
75. Tsui, D. (2018, April 2). I joined the cool blonde Asian club. The Cut. Retrieved from https://www.thecut.com/2018/04/cool-blonde-asian-personal-essay.html.
76. Vandenbosch, L., & Eggermont, S. (2012). Understanding sexual objectification: A comprehensive approach toward media exposure and girls’ internalization of beauty ideals, self-objectification, and body surveillance. Journal of Communication, 62(5), 869-87.
77. Vogue Korea. (2018). 2018 Media Kit. Retrieved from http://www.condenastinternational.com/country/korea/vogue/.
78. Yan, Y., & Bissell, K. (2014). The globalization of beauty: How is ideal beauty influenced by globally published fashion and beauty magazines? Journal of Intercultural Communication Research, 43(3), 194-214.
79. Yu, S. Y., Park, E-A., & Sung, M. (2015). Cosmetic advertisements in women’s magazines: A cross-cultural analysis of China and Korea. Social Behavior and Personality, 43(4), 685-704.
80. Yoo, H. C., Burrola, K. S., & Steger, M. F. (2010). A preliminary report on a new measure: Internalization of the model minority myth measure (IM-4) and its psychological correlates among Asian American college students. Journal of Counseling Psychology, 57(1), 114-127.
81. Yoon, S., & Kim, Y. A. (2020). Cosmetic surgery and self-esteem in South Korean: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery 44(1), 239-238.