한국복식학회(IJCF) 학술지영문홈페이지
[ Article ]
International Journal of Costume and Fashion - Vol. 22, No. 2, pp.14-28
ISSN: 2233-9051 (Print) 2288-7490 (Online)
Print publication date 31 Dec 2022
Received 01 Apr 2022 Revised 24 Jun 2022 Accepted 14 Jul 2022
DOI: https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2022.22.2.014

Developing Sustainable Clothing Design Using Chinese Auspicious Patterns

Dongxue Li ; Juhee Park ; Sung Hyon Kim ; Siyuan Liu
Doctor Student, Dept. of Fashion, Kookmin University, Seoul, South Korea
Professor, Dept. of Fashion, Kookmin University, Seoul, South Korea
Associate Professor, Dept. of Fashion, Kookmin University, Seoul, South Korea
Doctor Student, Dept. of Fashion, Kookmin University, Seoul, South Korea

Correspondence to: kim_sunghyon@kookmin.ac.kr

Citation Li, D., Park, J., Kim, S. H., & Liu, S. (2022). Developing sustainable clothing design using Chinese auspicious patterns. International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 22(2), 14-28.

Abstract

Chinese auspicious patterns(吉祥图案) have been widely applied to Chinese garments. In order to develop sustainable and innovative clothing design using Chinese auspicious patterns, this paper explored how the patterns were applied to the traditional costumes, and figured out how the concept of cherishing things embodied through the auspicious forms. On this basis, we developed four designs conveying sustainablity. The conclusions are as follows: firstly, by exploring the expression forms and symbolic meanings of auspicious patterns of Chinese traditional clothing. In this paper, we categorized them into three main categories, covering auspicious patterns in Chinese character form, auspicious patterns in pictographic form and comprehensive patterns. Secondly, this paper derived a concept of cherishing things(惜物) from Chinese culture, and developed a three-dimensional model showing how the concept can be applied: they are splicing of the waste fabrics, weaving and embroidering with waste or abandoned materials, and dyeing and painting with natural dyes. In addition, in the design practice, the upcycling of traditional Chinese auspicious patterns were completed by using three-dimensional models to realize the sustainable design of auspicious patterns. Finally, this paper developed a new fashion design that demonstrates the possibilities of diverse clothing design.

Keywords:

Chinese auspicious pattern, Sustainability, Design development, Cherishing things[惜物].

References

  • Alison, G. (2017). A practical guide to sustainable fashion (J. Y. Chen & H. L. Ma Trans.). Beijing, China: China Textile Press. (Original work published 2014).
  • Brismar, A. (n.d.). What is sustainable fashion? Greenstrategy. Retrieved from https://greenstrategy.se/sustainable-fashion-definition/
  • Chang, S. N. (2005). 中国织绣服饰全集 [The complete collection of Chinese weaving and embroidery costumes]. Tianjing, China: Tianjin People's Art Press.
  • Hou, Y. Y. (2018). 从材料制作思想看近代汉族民间女装的发展趋势 [Trend of folk Women-shirts in the modern Han nationality based on material making ideology] (Unpublished master’s thesis). Jiangnan University, Jiangsu, China.
  • Kate, F., & Lynda, G. (2019). Fashion & sustainability (H. Tao Trans.). Shanghai, China: Donghua University Press. (Original work published 2012).
  • Kknews (2019, June 13). The “runner-up” fashion industry: Every kilogram of fabric produced produces 23 kilograms of carbon dioxide. How to find eco-friendly textile alternatives? Sanlian life weekly. Retrieved from https://kknews.cc/home/x2any8r.html
  • Koca, E. (2019). Artistic studies on design development wıth fabric scraps in the context of sustainable fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 27(6), 654-665. [https://doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2019.27.6.654]
  • Koca, E., & Koç, F. (2020). Example of iterative process in upcycled clothing design: Unused neckties and upholstery scraps. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 28(6), 890-911. [https://doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.6.890]
  • Lee, Y., & Choy, H. (2014). Developing design education program concerning sustainable fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 64(2), 50-69. [https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2014.64.2.050]
  • Li, J. L. (2020). 中国传统经典纺织纹样史 [History of Chinese traditional classic textile patterns]. Beijing, China: China Textile Press.
  • Qvshi (2020, May 27). 补服: 明代官服的符号象征,补子之图纹,体现大明的礼法尊卑 [Bufu: The symbols of the official uniform of the Ming Dynasty, the pattern of the Buzi, reflecting the rituals of the Ming Dynasty]. Qvshi. Retrieved from https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1667836680474364996&wfr=spider&for=pc
  • Setiawardhani, S. D., & Park, H. W. (2022). Design characteristics of sustainable fashion products of indonesian brands. International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 21(1), 36-51. [https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2022.22.1.036]
  • Shu, W. (2016). 吉祥图案 [Auspicious designs of China]. Hefei, China: Huangshan Press.
  • Wang, L. H. (2015). 中华传统吉祥图案知识全集 [The complete collection of knowledge of Chinese traditional auspicious patterns]. Beijing, China: Meteoro Logical Press.
  • William M. (2005). Cradle to cradle: Remaking the way we make things (China agenda 21 management center & China U.S. sustainable development center Trans.). Shanghai, China: Tongji University Press. (Original work published 2002).
  • Wu, S. (2009). 中国图案全集 [Complete collection of Chinese patterns]. Jinan, China: Shandong Fine Arts Press.
  • Xu, W. (2015). 汉族传统服饰经典图案 [Classic patterns of Han traditional costumes]. Beijing, China: China Textile Press.
  • Yan, Y., Fang, H. J., & Yin, A. (2010). 清代服饰图典 [An Atlas of clothing in the Qing Dynasty]. Beijing, China: Forbidden City Press.
  • Yu, X. T. (2020, July 25). 中华文化传统中的节俭智慧及其传承 [Thrift wisdom and its inheritance in Chinese cultural tradition]. The Sohu News. Retrieved from https://www.sohu.com/a/409698154_387107
  • Yuan, Y. (2016). 中国传统吉祥图案 [Chinese traditional auspicious patterns]. Zhejiang, China: Zhejiang Ancient Books Press.
  • Yuan, Z. (2005). 中国服装史 [History of Chinese clothing]. Beijing, China: China Textile Press.
  • Zhou, J. (2021). 可持续设计理念在服装领域中的创新应用研究 [A study on the innovative application of sustainable design concept in the fleld of clothing](Unpublished doctor’s thesis). Northeast Electric Power University, Jilin, China.