한국복식학회(IJCF) 학술지영문홈페이지
[ Article ]
International Journal of Costume and Fashion - Vol. 23, No. 2, pp.45-57
ISSN: 2233-9051 (Print) 2288-7490 (Online)
Print publication date 31 Dec 2023
Received 02 Nov 2023 Revised 22 Dec 2023 Accepted 23 Dec 2023
DOI: https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2023.23.2.045

What is the Next Step for Zero-Waste Fashion?

Gee Yun Hwang ; Younhee Lee
Ph. D. candidate, Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University, Seoul, South Korea
Professor, Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University, Seoul, South Korea

Correspondence to: yiyhee@hanyang.ac.kr

Citation Hwang, G.Y., & Lee, Y.H. (2023). What is the Next Step for Zero-waste Fashion? International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 23(2), 45-57.

Abstract

Over the past decade, Zero-waste pattern making has been attracting attention as a breakthrough sustainable fashion design development method to reduce waste generated during production process. Although many designers have been developing creative zero-waste design methods, more systematic and standardized systems are needed to be commercialized in actual fashion industry. This study proposes to use a modular system as a solution to overcome the limitations of existing zero-waste pattern making methods. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to present a new methodology for sustainable fashion through the development of a zero-waste fashion design and construction system using the concept of a module system based on three-dimensional digital clothing technology. Through researching previous studies related to modular system fashion, the sustainable characteristics of the modular system were derived as, Personalized transformability, Simplicity, and functional extendibility. Based on these research results, a total of five looks for women’s clothing modular zero-waste fashion design using the three-dimensional digital fashion design method were presented as virtual prototypes. Through this study, it is expected that modular system fashion design using 3D digital clothing technology will meet various needs of consumers while presenting a new methodology for productivity and popularization of sustainable fashion.

Keywords:

Zero-Waste Fashion, Modular System, Digital Fashion, Sustainable Fashion

Acknowledgments

This work was supported by the research fund of Hanyang University(HY-202200000003513)

References

  • Antwerp Fashion Department (n.d.). 16MA, Emmanuel A. Ryngaert - ‘MECCANO’, Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. https://antwerp-fashion.be/show-2016/16-emmanuel-a-ryngaert/2016-ma-show-images-emmanuel-a-ryngaert/
  • Baldwin, C. Y., & Clark, K. B. (2000). Design rules: The power of modularity (Vol. 1). MIT Press. [https://doi.org/10.7551/mitpress/2366.001.0001]
  • Carrico, M., Dragoo, S. L., McKinney, E., Stannard, C., Moretz, C., & Rougeaux-Burnes, A. (2022). An inquiry into gradable zero-waste apparel design. Sustainability, 14(1), 452. [https://doi.org/10.3390/su14010452]
  • Carrico, M., & Kim, V. (2014). Expanding zero-waste design practices: A discussion paper. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 7(1), 58-64. [https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2013.837967]
  • ElShishtawy, N., Sinha, P., & Bennell, J. A. (2022). A comparative review of zero-waste fashion design thinking and operational research on cutting and packing optimisation. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 15(2), 187-199. [https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2021.1990416]
  • Errazuriz, S. (2023). Zipper dress. https://sebastian.studio/multiples-zipper-dress
  • Hur, E. S., & Thomas, B. G. (2011, July 27-31). Transformative modular textile design [regular paper presentation]. Bridges 2011: Mathematics, Music, Art, Architecture, Culture, Coimbra, Portugal, pp. 217-224.
  • Jin, B. E., & Shin, D. C. (2021). The power of 4th industrial revolution in the fashion industry: What, why, and how has the industry changed? Fashion and Textiles, 8(1), 1-25. [https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-021-00259-4]
  • Kim, H. (2009). Research on introduction of module system of product-Based on analysis of types and shapes elements of module systems. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 22, 415-426. https://www-earticle-net-ssl.access.hanyang.ac.kr/Article/A106898 [https://doi.org/10.21326/ksdt.2009..22.039]
  • Kim, J. H., & Kim, H. Y. (2018). A study on zero waste fashion design that applied puzzle cutting method. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 18(1), 37-55. [https://doi.org/10.18652/2018.18.1.3]
  • Kook, H. S. (2014). A study of sustainable zero waste fashion design [Doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University Graduate School].
  • Lee, E. J. (2014). Op-Art characteristics reflected in popularization of contemporary fashion - Centering around the methods of fashion expression -. The Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design, 12(3), 13-24.
  • Lee, H. C. (2020). Development of modular systematizing fashion designs for continuous change [Doctoral dissertation, Hanyang University Graduate School].
  • Lee, J. S. (2021, September 28). Fast fashion, which produces 80 billion garments a year, is “irresponsible” in disposing of clothing waste. News Tree. https://www.newstree.kr/newsView/ntr202109170003
  • Lee J. Y. (2023). Exploring the characteristics of modular system towards sustainable fashion design. A Journal of Brand Design Association of Korea, 21(3), 273-289. [https://doi.org/10.18852/bdak.2023.21.3.273]
  • Lee, Y. E. (2017). A study on atypical three-dimensional artwork using variability of module and minicel material. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 18(2), 447-458.
  • Li, M. M., Chen, Y., & Wang, Y. (2018). Modular design in fashion industry. Journal of Arts and Humanities, 7(3), 27-32. [https://doi.org/10.18533/journal.v7i3.1271]
  • Lim, S. Y., & Lee, J. H. (2012). A study on the modularity in clothing design. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 14(2), 1-10.
  • McQuillan, H. (2020). Digital 3D design as a tool for augmenting zero-waste fashion design practice. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 13(1), 89-100. [https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2020.1737248]
  • Rahman, O., & Gong, M. (2016). Sustainable practices and transformable fashion design–Chinese professional and consumer perspectives. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 9(3), 233-247. [https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2016.1167256]
  • Rissanen, T. I. (2013). Zero-waste fashion design: A study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting [Doctoral dissertation, University of Technology, Sydney]. http://hdl.handle.net/10453/23384
  • Saeidi, E., & Wimberley, V. S. (2018). Precious cut: Exploring creative pattern cutting and draping for zero-waste design. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 11(2), 243-253. [https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2017.1389997]
  • Stance, M. (2019). Buildable parachute jumper. Shop modular attachments. https://www.marfastance.com/build
  • The New School, Parsons (n.d.). Wei Hung Chen: Sustaining a future through fashion. Fashion Design (BFA). https://www.newschool.edu/parsons/profile/wei-hung-chen/
  • United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (2018, July 12). UN Alliance aims to put fashion on path to sustainability. Press Releases. https://unece.org/forestry/press/un-alliance-aims-put-fashion-path-sustainability
  • Vaid, M. (2021, June 30). Modular fashion – The next big thing. Eco Textile News. https://www.ecotextile.com/2021063028006/features/modular-fashion-the-next-big-thing-2/all-pages.html
  • Vogue (n.d.). Christopher Shannon, spring 2017 menswear. vogue.com. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/christopher-shannon#review
  • Wei, A. (2023, March 1). Paco Rabanne fall 2023 paid tribute to the late designer and Salvador Dali. Fashionista. https://fashionista.com/2023/03/paco-rabanne-fall-2023-review#gid=ci02b9262740002530&pid=paco-rabanne-fall-2023-41
  • Yang, H. Y. (2008). Modular system expressed in structural system of fashion since the late of 20C-Focusing on the fashion of Yeohlee Teng, John Ribbe, and Galya Rosenfeld. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(5), 788-799. [https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.5.788]
  • Yoon, J. A., & Lee, Y. H. (2014a). The expressive characteristics of modular system in contemporary fashion design. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 64(7), 156-171. [https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2014.64.7.156]
  • Yoon, J. A., & Lee, Y. H. (2014b). The structural method of modular system expressed in contemporary fashion design. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 22(5), 776-793. [https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.5.776]
  • Yoon, J. Y., & Yim, E. H. (2015). Design methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design- Focused on the typology of ZWPM -. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 23(6), 929-939. [https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.6.929]